Vienna visits

One of my favorite things about this trip has been our Vienna visits. Each week our humanities professor gives us a list of churches, parks, museums, and other sites around the city to visit and we write about them in our journals. When I first found out about that part of the course, I was very overwhelmed. However, when I started visiting I discovered that I loved going to out-of-the-way places in Vienna that I might not normally see.
For example, today we went to the Minoritenkirche. It is a beautiful church, as is the Michaelerkirche I visited last week. Though Stephansdom is a stunning work of architecture, I find it a little overwhelming. The interior is so full of paintings and sculptures that I get distracted and feel that I can't quite absorb everything I am seeing. The Minoritenkirche and the Michaelerkirche are a perfect balance of ornate beauty and quiet simplicity. I think the Michaelerkirche is my favorite, but I do love both. The Minoritenkirche is not as common a tourist site, which is refreshing.
I have also loved going to the parks around Vienna. I think I have been to all of them at this point, and they are all lovely and they all have something different to offer. Burgarten is close to our school and is perfect for studying, while Volksgarten has some beautiful sculptures and a huge rose garden. Schonbrunn is on the outskirts of the city and boasts some exquisitely manicured lawns and flower beds. Augarten lies in the shadow of two large towers left from the Nazi occupation. My favorite park, however, is Oberlaa. To get there you have to take the U-bann to the end of the line, and then you take the Strassenbann to the end of its line. That's what makes the park so perfect, though... I feel like I am out in the country when I am there. The air is fresher and the park is much bigger than the parks in the downtown areas. Most of the people at Oberlaa are older Austrians; in fact, the park is not even listed in our extensive Vienna guide book. I love going places where mostly locals go. I feel less like a tourist and more like a regular human being.
I don't want a single day to go by without seeing at least one cool thing in this city. There are so many wonderful things to see and do that I honestly don't think three monthes is long enough. I still have a list of museums to go to and cafes to visit. I know that weekend travel is one of the biggest blessings about this trip, but honestly I feel that discovering Vienna is more important to me personally. I am starting to think that it takes monthes, even years, to really absorb a city and its culture. I will get to see lots of cool places on the weekends, but I won't become part of the culture in those places like I am here in Vienna. I hope that as each day goes by I can make this city a little more my own... it has so much to offer me.

Music

Sometimes this blog overwhelms me, because I cannot find the words to describe this experience. I feel somewhat guilty about that, because as an English major I feel that I should always be able to say SOMETHING semi-poetic about life here. It's funny that I have so much to say, but yet I cannot seem to say it.
This week has been amazing, to say the least. Tuesday I went to Madame Butterfly, my absolute favorite opera. If you have never seen it, I highly recommend it. The music is stunning, but the most compelling part of the opera is the story. It's all about unconditional love and everlasting hope. I don't want to give more of the story away, but I will say it is definitely worth your time.
This whole week was full of incredible musical experiences. Saturday we went to The Magic Flute, an opera I had never seen before. Unfortunately there were no subtitles and the story is very complicated, so I was completely lost. The vocalists were outstanding, though. Today my roommate and I went to two high masses. At one mass, we heard the world-renowned Vienna Boys Choir. Heaven literally descended into the chapel when those boys started to sing. They looked remarkably young, probably only about eight to ten years old, and their voices were clear as bells. I was honored to hear them sing.
After mass number one, we went to the Augustinerkirche, a church whose music is renowned throughout Europe. The music literally swept me away. I have become increasingly aware of the richness of Catholic liturgical music versus the poor quality of some of our own church music. Granted, I do not by any means want to get rid of the songs I sing at my home church and I don't think they are bad, but when I honestly consider the quality of the repertoire, I have to say that the Catholic churches here sing better music than many Protestant churches at home. There is a difficult balance to strike between the traditional and ritual aspects of Catholicism and the modern, individualistic approach to Christianity we sometimes take in the States. I have decided that though I am most definitely Protestant as far as doctrine is concerned, the Catholics do have some good things to offer and we should pay more attention to them.
We had trouble finding a seat at the Augustinerkirche, and so a very kind church member helped us find a place near the altar. After service, we started talking and he told us about the amazing choir we had just heard. Apparently the choir is open to anyone who can and wants to sing. He asked if any of us were interested, and I and one other girl said yes. He took us backstage and we met the choir and the conductor, who were all sitting around eating spaghetti. It was incredible. They invited us to practice and perform with them, which we are planning on doing. I could not believe my ears.
I am constantly reminded of God's great love and care for me everday. He wants me to live an abundant life. Even if it is just looking at a blooming flower or hearing my favorite song on the radio, the good things in life, small though they may be, show that good exists. And if good exists, then God exists and He really cares. And if God really cares, then my life is worth something. After only two and a half weeks here, I can see His love in a new way, which is what I wanted to gain most from this experience. He is looking out for me and I am blessed indeed.

Prague

This past weekend I had my first European experience outside of Vienna. Saturday morning we traveled for four hours by bus to Prague, the capital of the Czech Repulic. I stepped out of the bus and found myself looking at the river which runs through the city's center and staring at some of the most beautiful architecture I have ever seen. We had six hours of freetime to spend in Prague, but first we went to find some lunch. Before we could eat, however, we had to stop at an ATM to get some Czech crowns.
I thought the Euro was confusing, but that was before I met the Czech crown. Good grief. Seventeen crowns to the dollar and twenty-five to the Euro... needless to say, I really had no idea how much I was spending at all, a fact made most apparent when we figured out that we had spent twenty bucks on a hamburger at lunch. The Bulgarian man whom I bought some souveneirs from gave us a good deal on what we bought, and expressed sympathy when we sadly related our lunch story. He informed us that just such purchases as the one we ignorantly made are what keeps the Czech economy in business.
Prague was crowded- very crowded. Apparently, it is one of the top tourist spots in Central Europe, a fact I did not know until we arrived. I learned one very important lesson last weekend: I learned that I really need to do my research before I land in a city, so that I will know where I am headed exactly and what I can do when I get there. Because none of us had done any research at all, we ended up staying in the tourist district and visiting dozens of tourist shops. I don't believe we used our time well. We did run into a random rave in the middle of the street, however, which was unusual and well worth watching.
Czech culture, or at least what little I observed of it, is much louder and more informal than Austrian culture. The buildings and city streets look much like Wien, but with an eastern flair. The people seem to be more prone to rowdy celebration and spontaneity than the proper Austrians. We saw people marching down the street loudly singing folk songs, people dancing and drinking beer, and people laughing and talking in large groups. I have not seen any of those scenarios played out in Vienna. It is true that some of the people I was observing were probably tourists, but the culture allows for more of that kind of thing regardless.
Sunday we took a walking tour of the city, and I fell in love with Prague for the first time. Prague is called "The City of A Hundred Spires" because of its many cathedrals and churches which fill the landscape with spires and domes. Our guide said Prague is much like Paris in that regard. I realized on Sunday that despite the tourism and crowds, Prague is a stunning city and there is none like it anywhere in the world. After our historical tour, I explored the city with several girls and we found a great chicken kebab place and a great little bakery with wonderful desserts. Lesson number two learned: get out of the main tourist areas of any city. The other areas are much better:)
Prague was an incredible experience, but I found myself wanting to go "home" to Vienna. I also realized how much I appreciate what I have in Vienna and what a great place it is for students to live. I think part of me will always consider Vienna my second home. I am looking forward to planning my own weekend trips and seeing where the next few weeks will take me... Prague definitely whetted my appetite for more travel!

?

I don't know what to call this entry. I feel like my cheesy titles take away from the beauty that is Vienna. I am discovering on this trip how beautiful life really is... and I know it is easy for me to say that, since I am in one of the greatest cities in the world and I am blessed to experience and see things that many people don't get to experience and see. That being said, however, I am starting to think that life in Nashville is just as beautiful as life is here. If I looked at the world in Nashville the way I look at the world here in Vienna, as a world full of promise, truth, excitement, and hope, I would treat other people differently. I would go to more museums, spend more time at the park, and try more out-of-the-way coffee houses. I would go to academic lectures and plays and operas. It is true that such cultural experiences are more easily accessible in Vienna than they can be in Nashville. In Vienna, I can hop on an U-bann, pay four Euro, and be in an opera with not much forethought or planning. Still, there is more in Nashville than I often take advantage of. In the same vein, I think that I am more accepting of different people here than I am in Nashville. There is something about being a foreigner and looking completely stupid everytime you open your mouth that makes you more tolerant.
Wednesday we had a devotional in the courtyard of the hotel. Our group as a whole is truly seeking the Lord in this experience, and to me that makes all the difference. In one short week, I believe He has shown me so much about myself and my relationship with Him. I have realized how much I rely on other people to give me a sense of self-worth, instead of looking to God. I have realized that God takes care of me constantly.... He NEVER stops looking out for me, even when I ignore Him. As much as I will learn on this trip about culture and geography and the world in general, what I learn about my relationship with Christ is THE most important thing. If this knowledge of Christ is all that I gain on this trip, every penny spent will be more than worth it.

P.S. We went to several AMAZING museums yesterday... sat in the most famous coffee house in Vienna and talked about philosophy as it relates to love and beauty... visited Cafe Sperl and got snappped at by the waitress when Cari ordered tapwater... and spent today at the park and restaurants studying for a big test on Monday. Life is good.

Yesterday was an amazing day. As part of our humanties course, we are required to visit lots of places around Vienna and keep a journal of notes and sketches documenting our experiences. After class, we set out to visit some of the places on our list and ended up in front of the Stephansdom, where we sketched the cathedral. After a quick stop for gelato, we walked to the Roman ruins outside of the Hofburg. Vienna was once a Roman outpost, and a group of underground buildings were found when the Viennese tried to build the U-bann. Now you can go see the ruins, which are basically in an enclosed hole in the middle of the street.
After the ruins, we walked to Volksgarten Park, a lovely green oasis complete with a rose garden and majestic statues. We sat on the benches and sketched some more... I think I could have sat there all day.
My favorite part of the day by far was the ballet. Three other girls and I randomly decided to go to a ballet, and we were able to get standing room tickets for four Euro. The ballet was performed in the Vienna Opera House, or the Staatsoper, a beautiful building. Unlike the Stephansdom, which has a nice exterior but a more beautiful interior, I think the Opera House is more majestic on the exterior. The inside is still stunning, however, and the performance was incredible. The ballet's title translates from the German into "The New World of Ballet." It was definitely a modern opera, but the first act particularly retained many aspects of classical ballet. The performance did not have one cohesive story line but was more like a series of dances, each telling a different story (though I am not altogether sure I understood any of those stories.)
I am thrilled to live in a city where I can go to a ballet or an opera or a symphony whenever I feel like it without spending a lot of money or planning in advance. I don't even have to drive to get to concerts- I can hop on the U-bann and I will be at the Opera House in fifteen minutes. I can see why Europeans have more exposure to classic performances. They are cheaper and more convenient to get to than they are in the States. I know I will miss the classic performances available to me here when I go home.

My First Full Weekend in Wien

Every now and then, I catch myself stopping and saying aloud, "This is the most incredible life ever." I think I am experiencing what they call the "honeymoon stage" of living abroad. Everything seems wonderful, and I can find almost no fault with the world. Even the things that might usually bother me are easily disregarded and forgotten. I still am not a huge fan of the food, however, but the more different places I try, the more I find dishes that I really enjoy.
Saturday our wonderful German teacher from school divided us into groups and sent us to explore different shopping areas of the city. In America, I love to haggle at flea markets and bargain for the best price, so I asked to be in the group that went to the Vienna flea market. I thought it would be lots of fun... when we arrived however, it was an entirely different story. I felt complete cultural overload for the first time. Hundreds of people were pressed in tightly around me, speaking German and quite frankly smelling like body oder. Unlike our flea markets, this one offered a plethora of goods that I would never consider buying... such as gas masks, for example. Many of the booths were filled with antiques of one sort or another, but my eyes are not trained to look for treasures in places like that, and so everything for sell looked like junk to me.
Afterwards we ate in the Naschmarkt, one of my favorite places in all of Vienna. The food there is diverse, cheap, and good. Later that night we visited the Prater, an amusement park in the heart of the city. The rides are more like the ones found at a state fair than the ones at six flags, but they were actually lots of fun. I rode the swings with Leah- it was basically a date.
On Sunday we went to Stephandom Cathedral for mass. The experience was unvelievable. Unfortunately I sat behind a huge pillar, so I couldn't see anything happening on the stage, but I did get to sit next to the orchestra and the choir. When those people opened their mouthes, I literally thought I was in heaven. I have noticed that the Austrian people have a deep respect for classical music and classic singing that we in America sorely lack. The Stephansdom choir, I am sure, is well respected, but they are not considered to be "great" by European standards. By American standards though, they were pretty incredible.
After church we ate lunch at a harvest festival. I ate my very first bratwurst with mustard. Then we took the train to the very outskirts of Vienna and stood on a huge hill where we could see the whole city. Vienna is stunning and HUGE. For some unknown reason, I feel so comfortable here that the city feels small to me. When I saw it from the top of the hill, however, I realized what a huge Metropolis I live in.
We hiked down the hill (after losing half of the group and missing the important devotional in the vineyards) and somehow made our way back to the hotel and supper. The day was beautiful.... everyday here is like a dream.
Today was our first day of school. We had our first German lesson with our Austrian teacher, whom I really liked. He was hilarious, though seemingly quite distraught at our lack of German knowledge. After class I went to the park with my roommate, and then we ate goulash at a small cafe near the hotel. The best part of the day, believe it or not, was the trip to H&M we took tonight. I hate shopping, repeat HATE shopping, but for some reason I went nuts in that store. I bought the most adorable little black dress you have ever seen. I want to spend about 300 euros in that store, but I am resisting the temptation.
I just don't understand why everything can be so perfect. I am blessed beyond belief, and so undeserving of all that I am experiencing. I feel like I will learn a vast amount here, and I hope that somehow I can use my personal growth to bless others here and in the States. God has given me much more than I even asked for, and I don't want to waste it. I also don't want to get so wrapped up in Vienna that I forget the One who created it all. I know that I have been given the opportunity of a lifetime... everyday I am reminded of God's extreme mercy and love. He is taking care of me each and every day.

I am in Vienna?

I cannot say exactly how many times I have asked myself or the person next to me this question in the last forty-eight hours. I am simply in awe. I don't know what to say to convey exactly what these two days have been like, but I guess I will try. So here goes.....
The plane ride was actually my first taste of European culture. The plane was huge, with five relatively large bathrooms downstairs (I greatly appreciated that, just so you know). Every seat had its own screen with TV, music, and movie options. The staff served us good meals... Over all, the entire experience was several steps above any American Airline I have ever been on, including the plane I flew on to Hawaii.
We spent day one trekking about the city, discovering some of its wonders. Unfortunately, my jet lag prevented some of those wonders from sticking with me, but I do remember that we visited our school, saw the Stephansdom (the most famous church in Vienna), and ate gelato at the best place in town, Tichi ice. I will probably go there at least every other day, and that is no joke.
Today, we went to the Naschmarkt, which consists of hundreds and hundreds of booths and little restaurants all lined up down a mile-long stretch. Most of the booths sell cheap and delicious food, though some have great scarves and clothes just waiting for me.
The most moving thing we have done as of yet was to visit the Schonbrunn Palace, the summer home of the Hapburgs. Today I have stood in rooms where Napoleon walked. I stood in the very room where Mozart gave his first concert as a six-year-old boy for the Empress Maria Theresia. The architecture and decor was absolutely stunning, but the most incredible part was the knowledge that generations of legendary men and women have stood in those halls, men and women I have read about my whole life. I think the whole Mozart thing was what really got to me.
In general, I feel about Vienna the way I felt about the plane- it is several steps up. Not that Europe is better than America, because that is not the case. Europe, or at least Vienna, is much more formal, however, and their standards are higher than ours in certain areas.
For example, the streets are amazingly clean, as is our hotel. The public tranportation system is phenomenal. The Viennese value manners and propriety much more than we do, and I have become increasingly aware of some of my more annoying habits. My annoying habits include: elbows on the table, talking in a very loud voice, laughing loudly in public places, not maintaining certain standards of cleanliness in the hotel, etc. In America, this wouldn't faze anybody, because most of us would not consider these things a huge problem. Noise is a big deal here though.... we are a group of college students, mostly girls, and by American standards we are extremely well behaved. However, we were told after breakfast that we had been too rambunctious in the dining room, and we needed to try to lower our voices. Very interesting to me...
I am surprised by two things. Number one: we are very much like the Viennese. Number two: we are so different from the Viennese. Tonight I was sitting in a restaurant eating pizza, laughing with friends and joking with the waiter, and I felt like I was in America. Then we went to a coffee house and ordered cheesecake and a water, and I knew I was not in America. First of all, the Viennese do not eat as much sugar as we do. Nothing is nearly as sweet as it is in America, even the desserts. And I don't know what they do to their cheesecake, but it tasted pretty good. Secondly, they bring you teeny tiny cups of liquid with no ice when you order a drink. There are no refills and sometimes they will not bring you free tapwater, so you have to pay.
I do like the Viennese, though. They have been kind and helpful, very forgiving of my poor German and very willing to speak to me in English. When you really look at it and pull away the layers of small drinks and odd cheesecake, they are just like us. That is comforting to me, and I feel surprisingly at home here. I live in Vienna, for three months at least, and for three months I know I belong here. Who would have thought.... I am actually in Vienna.

Two Days Before Departure

I cannot believe that the planning, packing, shopping, and talking are practically over. Even though I know intellectually that in two days I will board a plane and fly across the Atlantic, the whole trip feels more like a dream than a reality. I have seen numerous pictures and listened to multiple Europe travel veterans tell their stories, but Europe still seems more like a fantasy world found in history books than a place that I will actually live. I am excited, though, about this dream world... I am also sad to leave people and places I love behind. However, I know that for me, in this time and place, the benefits of leaving home for three months will outweigh the advantages of staying. I hope that when I come back I will appreciate my home in a new way.
So, off I go... to vienna and beyond! ( I couldn't help myself...)

Auf Wiedersehen